Fortunately I had some contacts though couchsurfing and people I had met in my first couple of days in Iraq, otherwise Erbil might have been a lonely place. I hadn't been in a city for a while, and I had forgotten that I don't really like the impersonal nature of cities, which seemingly holds even in the most friendly and hospitable of countries.
As it was a Friday, most shops were closed. Friday's are usually a great day to ride the bike as the trucks are often off the roads, replaced by friendly picnicking families. I met with a friend and we went out to the Martyr Sami Abdul Rahman Park. The park was named after the deputy PM killed along with many politicians in a suicide bombing in 2004 (one year after the war ended in Kurdistan). My friend suggested that security in Kurdistan has been increased ever since, and as a result Kurdistan is now a very safe country.
The park is an amazing accomplishment. In a capital where power cuts occur every morning, this world class garden was massively popular, with hoards of families enjoying the never-ending roses, outdoor cinemas, fountains, and lakes. And this place used to be Saddam's army base in Erbil? Everyone I meet has the same impression and attitude. That Iraqi Kurdistan is a free country, that Iraqi Kurdistan is on the up economically, and that the massive foreign investment, increasing every year, has created the mini Dubai that is Erbil. There is a positive vibe everywhere.
It's a rather interesting contrast to Iran, where the infrastructure was more advanced, where it's more acceptable and common for women to be out and about (very uncommon in Erbil), and where relationships before marriage are more common. And where living is more affordable in comparison to wages. Yet Iraqis and Iranians I spoke to viewed Iraq as having more freedom, and with a lot of criticism levelled towards the Iranian government. Sure, some activities in Iran aren't officially sanctioned, such as drinking and relationships, but they seemed more common Iran nonetheless, at least amongst those who wanted to engage in these activities.
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