My final day in Iraq and my final day in Kurdistan, at least on this trip. I'm leaving behind Dohuk which is a nice city, with a few nice modern residential areas and new parks. Unfortunately Dohuk says goodbye in a funny way - with lots of rain. At a fork in the road, take the road to the right. The trucks go left. Both roads go to Zahok, and the border.
As I enter Zahok, the views are fantastic. Quite a bizarre feeling looking at the flat plain surrounded by green mountains, linking Iraq, Turkey and Syria! Again, very nice to whiz by hundreds of cars and trucks waiting on the border as I take the express lane out of Iraq. Before I leave though, I get my first delicious Turkish meal which is more in tune with my tastes.
The border guards in Iraq and Turkey are curious and friendly, and the Turkish customs don't spend more than 7 seconds questioning me on my luggage. What I assumed was the Turkish passport control turns out to be a toll gate, and my invitation inside is just for some free coffee and a friendly chat. I even had a chance to collect the tolls from the truck drivers! It was nice to see a gorgeous Turkish woman working in passport control, with no headscarf!
Some of the kids just outside Turkish passport control weren't particularly friendly, trying to pull me off my bike when I wouldn't give them money! Another boy a few km's down the road attempted to throw a rock. Was this still Kurdistan? It was like another world in terms of friendliness.
Later that day, it was nice to meet a friendly Iraqi Kurd refugee in Silopi who had me over for dinner. A final gesture of hospitality from the middle east before I took my bus for Istanbul, and Europe, the next day. Another world altogether.
03 May 2010
02 May 2010
Kurdistan: Day 16, Dohuk
A lazy day in Dohuk reading a captivating book on middle eastern history by Robert Fisk. Highly recommended!
01 May 2010
Kurdistan: Day 15, Akre to Dohuk
The rolling green hills have opened up to a flat plain and some very nice tailwind. However, it's definitely been one of my most uncomfortable days in terms of the standard of driving. I wish I had a mirror today on these narrow roads.
Rather interesting to come within 30km of Mosul, one of the most dangerous cities in the world, especially after hearing about multiple bombings there that day. No matter, it doesn't seem like much trouble from Arab Iraq will be getting through the multiple checkpoints into Kurdish Iraq.
Halfway through the day, the road splits. One for Dohuk, and the other is a more direct road to Zahok which the trucks all use, and is flatter. Take the road for Dohuk, no matter what. It's much wider, much safer, a much better surface, much more scenic, and a little more difficult over the hills.
It was nice to meet some travellers at the hotel that night, a couple of German guys who had come specifically to Iraq and were trekking around a little bit. They shared very funny story that night of a bus ride that took them out of the massive US army Kurdistan checkpoint and a little too close for comfort to the disputed city of Kirkuk. It seems that neither Kurdish soldiers nor American soldiers will prevent you from entering Arab Iraq, even accidentally!
Rather interesting to come within 30km of Mosul, one of the most dangerous cities in the world, especially after hearing about multiple bombings there that day. No matter, it doesn't seem like much trouble from Arab Iraq will be getting through the multiple checkpoints into Kurdish Iraq.
Halfway through the day, the road splits. One for Dohuk, and the other is a more direct road to Zahok which the trucks all use, and is flatter. Take the road for Dohuk, no matter what. It's much wider, much safer, a much better surface, much more scenic, and a little more difficult over the hills.
It was nice to meet some travellers at the hotel that night, a couple of German guys who had come specifically to Iraq and were trekking around a little bit. They shared very funny story that night of a bus ride that took them out of the massive US army Kurdistan checkpoint and a little too close for comfort to the disputed city of Kirkuk. It seems that neither Kurdish soldiers nor American soldiers will prevent you from entering Arab Iraq, even accidentally!
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